Breguet – A maritime heritage where sport meets elegance – GMT Magazine
Between gentle waves or big swells, in the eye of a storm or sliding on a calm sea, it resolutely holds its course towards the same horizons of precision, technical performance and sporting elegance. “It” is the Marine collection, enriched this year with three new sophisticated versions which continue to celebrate Breguet’s heritage in the field of marine chronometry. The Maison’s long-standing relationship with the sailing world has been cultivated since Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed Watchmaker of the Royal Navy in 1815 by King Louis XVIII of France. At that time, marine chronometers were of paramount importance for fleets, as they enabled them to calculate the position of ships at sea. Considered as ship’s instruments in their own right, they had to be as precise as they were robust, in particular in the difficult conditions associated with the constant movement of ships. Held in high esteem in European courts for his many horological inventions, the founder of Maison Breguet was particularly renowned for having developed exceptional marine chronometers mounted on a cardan suspension system allowing them to maintain a stable horizontal position, regardless of the pitch or roll of the boat.
Marine chronograph © Breguet
Discovery, Escape, Adventure
Two centuries later, Breguet continued its technical and aesthetic epic by enriching the Marine collection with three timepieces inspired by the spirit of discovery, escape and adventure. The Marine models 5517, 5527 and 5547 are thus available in versions with an assertive sporting character. What do they have in common? A titanium case, a material ensuring robustness, resistance to sea air and corrosion. Not to mention an incomparable lightness providing optimal comfort on the wrist. The elegantly refined Ref 5517 features a three-hand display with date indication; Reference 5527 highlights the legibility of the “flyback” chronograph function displayed by a large central hand with three counters located between 3 and 9 o’clock indicating the minutes, hours and small seconds chronographed; while the reference 5547 has an alarm function and a double hour indication. These three variants are powered by self-winding Manufacture movements with gold oscillating weight and innovative silicon technology for the escapement and balance-spring. A guarantee of performance accentuated by a refined aesthetic that underlines the classic aesthetic codes of Breguet with a few contemporary touches. The navy blue dials of the Marine 5517, the Marine Chronograph 5527 and the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 all feature a hand-crafted sunburst finish.
Marine Musical Alarm © Breguet
All three models also feature a Roman numeral hour rim with luminescent indexes, the famous Breguet open-ended faceted gold hands and a central hand with subtle maritime details. These meticulous compositions are completed by a leather or rubber or titanium strap which completes their aura of elegance, sportiness and impeccable performance.
Classic Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge © Breguet
The revolution continues
Despite celebrating its 220th anniversary this year, the famous tourbillon continues to exude astonishing panache and vitality! Developed by Abraham-Louis Breguet and patented on June 26, 1801 – or 7 Messidor Year IX according to the republican calendar in force in post-revolutionary France – this ingenious complication which defies the laws of physics has crossed the centuries and continues to run heads. nowadays. It must be said that this mechanism intended to compensate for the harmful effects of gravity on the precision of the movement is more alive than ever in the world of Haute Horlogerie. Knowing that Abraham Louis Breguet had only patented it ten years ago, this formidable regulator has been adopted since the end of the quartz crisis by many watch brands. Nevertheless, the Manufacture remains the legitimate custodian of this horological complication which remains indelible in the name of its founder.
Classic Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge © Breguet
Although it has been the subject of countless iterations, this mechanism continues to inspire the Manufacture, which has not said its last word on the subject. Breguet has still not exhausted the potential of this revolutionary mechanism in every sense of the word. Reinterpreted several times over the generations, it reigns supreme among the Maison’s recent creations, which probably has the largest collection of tourbillons in the watch industry. With a daring and sporty aesthetic, the tourbillon is at the heart of the Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887, a Grande Complication model also equipped with a perpetual calendar and an equation of time indication. It is also found in the Classique Tourbillon Extra-plat automatic 5367, which is available in several versions. Two particularly minimalist iterations opt for a traditional “Grand Feu” enamel dial. A skeletonized version reveals the secrets of its inner workings in a scenography brought to life by caliber 581, the Maison’s thinnest tourbillon movement, only 3 mm thick. Located between 4 and 6 o’clock, the tourbillon is housed in a titanium cage housing a tailor-made escapement and a Breguet balance with silicon hairspring.
Combining technical virtuosity and aesthetic mastery, the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge is distinguished by its hand-guilloché movement with two tourbillons driving the entire plate thanks to a central differential. A fascinating show staged by this caliber, one of the most complex ever developed by Breguet. Complicated but also highly symbolic. Not only are the regulating organs of this timepiece technically very close to the original creation of Abraham-Louis Breguet, but the back of the movement also bears an engraving of the “Maison du Quai de l’Horloge”, a venerable building located in the heart of the Île de la Cité, at 39 quai de l’Horloge, in Paris, where the master watchmaker lived and worked from 1775. Within these walls, he gave life to great horological inventions such as the gong spring for repeater watches in 1783; the “Breguet spiral” in 1795; and above all the legendary tourbillon patented in 1801. History buffs will appreciate this beautiful nod to the origins of the incredible heritage bequeathed by the founder of the House.